Tuesday 24 February 2015

The Time Difference in the Caribbean

We are only four hours 'behind' the UK in terms of what time of the day it is, but there is another big difference in time and that is how time is viewed by many Caribbeans and this extends to the expats working out here. The original suggestion as to how quickly our new dinghy could be delivered was "a week". When I repeated this time, the agent said "Yes, a week or so". We should have walked away then! The following day when we had firm details it transpired that it would in fact be 2 weeks, but we needed a dinghy and altered our plans and visited Martinique before returning to St Lucia a few days before the "due day". It was only then that we found out that the ship bringing our dinghy from St Maartins was leaving on the 17th Feb as we had been told, but was sailing to the British Virgin Isles first and would not arrive in St Lucia until 25th making the total 3 weeks. Our return to St Lucia did however allow us to exchange our loaned and badly leaking dinghy for another one, ironically our old one which by now had been repaired! At least we no longer needed to swim ashore any more.
Whilst we had our enforced stay in St Lucia we decided to get an electrician to try and establish why we were having problems with our batteries not giving their full capacity. Darrell visited a recommended company on the Monday morning and the receptionist said someone may be able to come that afternoon, but certainly the following day, and said she would phone to confirm. She did phone, but only to inform us that they couldn't come the following day but would be there on Wednesday, so at least that gave us a day when we could do something else. Wednesday duly arrived, and, just to be sure, Darrell phoned to check and, yes they would be coming, but probably not before lunchtime. Lunchtime came and went as did afternoon tea time and high tea time, but no one came. The following morning, Darrell walked round to their offices (a couple of containers with air con in one of them and a workshop in the other - quite a common arrangement as they are easily secured) and caught the electrician there. "I was just coming. I'll be there in 15 or 20 minutes". I suggested I would wait and escort him to Stream, but he said there was no need and would see me soon. An hour and a half later he arrived! He was very thorough and tested all systems and made some adjustments to the generator output but, as we feared it was the batteries themselves that were causing the problem. These are the batteries bought exactly one year ago to replace 6 month old batteries which we were told were no good. Fortunately these were kept as we discovered they were in fact OK and so Darrell spent a 'pleasant' afternoon replacing the batteries while Sarah, on her way to the marina recycling skip, managed to offload the old ones to the security guard at the marina who had one of his mates pick it up within minutes and was disappointed to find it wouldn't start it!
The "Sailmaker/Rigger" who altered our foredeck shade and promised he would come over that afternoon to free up the jammed inner forestay we are still waiting for! Mind you that could be a good thing as he had been asked to reposition the lifting point for the shade which had been sewn off centre by the original maker in St Vincent for reasons best know to himself. Imagine our surprise/disappointment when we got our shade back to find it had been resewn an equal distance the other side of centre!
Stop Press. A further update on the new dinghy saga. Our due day is tomorrow and so today we have been getting organised for our couple of weeks in Dominica with a big shop as the supermarkets here are better than on Dominica, along with a visit to the chandlers as, again, there aren't any decent ones on Dominica for those 'essential items' Imagine our disappointment then when we found out that the dinghy had missed the ship yesterday! This is despite it being ordered 3 weeks ago and full payment going through two weeks ago and the agents confirming it had been taken to the docks over a week ago. We have been assured that Budget Marine are sending it by carrier and it will arrive on Thursday, only a day late from the revised delivery date. I am not expecting anything at this stage! So we now have another day to kill in St Lucia and the weather forecast for Friday is not looking too good for a passage north so we may still be here next week.

Monday 23 February 2015

Anse D'Arlet

Our last night in St Pierre was slightly disturbed. A Northly swell had got up and we were rolling a lot and swinging in big arcs. Anchoring at St Pierre is an interesting and at times difficult task, the sea bed is littered with wrecks and the currents and tides are strange. We were lucky with where we had managed to get in, but did end up in some strange positions during the few days we were there. This did make timing our swims ashore interesting as they could easily go from thirty metres to shore or jetty to a hundred metres as the boat swung on anchor and chain. But it was the same with all the boats and there was often boats having to up anchor because everyone had moved and they were suddenly very close neighbours. As the sun set another boat  anchored between us and the jetty, which would have been ok except for the fact everyone was swinging in the swell. At 2am Sarah was doing usual night owl routine and was up in the cockpit, when she awoke Darrell to see if he felt she was over reacting by putting fenders out. By the time Darrell got up the interloper was virtually alongside. Thankfully, they had got up to check and up anchored and moved to a more suitable position.

We had a good sail down to the South of Martinique and managed to get a mooring buoy in Anse D'Arlet close to the beach. This was a requirement as the borrowed dinghy was no longer useable, as much as pumped air in, the air leaked out quicker, so swimming ashore with a dry bag of stuff takes it toll, the nearer the better. It also added to the confusion of the French holiday makers, as we came ashore and got changed and went off for a hike. Or those who saw us at the end of the day putting on our snorkelling gear and swim off from the beach towing our bags.
The swell made the bay very rolly and with no dinghy we couldn't put out a stern anchor, so we had to endure the slightly uncomfortable movement of the boat. It is a very pretty bay, with good snorkelling a very popular beach, lots of bars and restaurants and a number of turtles to watch. Once ashore we could walk to Petit Anse D'Arlet to check out and walk back around the headland.





Sunday 22 February 2015

Fort De France, Martinique

As we couldn't hire a car in Martinique, we were obliged to use local transport. We have become used to buses in the Caribbean, but those on Martinique were a cut above the norm. Instead of a battered minibus crammed full of people. These were more like the buses of home. Spacious, airy, moving at a gentle pace, no continuous blasting of the horn, but there was a big sign saying don't talk to the driver, not the most helpful when you are not too sure where you need to get off. No loud music and definitely no squeezing extra people in. Therefore the bus journeys we took were more comfortable, but slightly less fun. We travelled up to Morne Rouge a town on Mount Pelee the volcano by St Pierre and spent a few hours exploring. Unfortunately, the museum of volcanology was shut between noon and 4pm. It was pleasant to spend some time in the cool of the mountains.

Our next trip was down the island to the capital: Fort de France. Luckily, this time it was open and very busy when we arrived at the bus station. We timed our arrival superbly to coincide with the Carnival Parade by the preschool and primary pupils of the area. The theme for the costumes was colours of the world. So it was definitely bright and great fun to watch as they danced to the drums of the Samba bands and taped music from very large speakers on the back of vans.



We then took in the sights and had a tasty meal of in the local market. It was a much more interesting visit than last year. The city has a more European feel with modern buildings, while managing to maintain a charm of its own. 
Martinique was the home of Napoleon's Josephine. Her statue was decapitated by the locals who blamed her for the reintroduction of slavery. They also decapitated the main people in the plaque on the side of it. We spent a while using our historical knowledge to identify some of the people.











Exploring Martinique

As we had secured an anchorage close to the shore, by close to the shore I mean within swimming distance- this became a necessity with the state of the dinghy, we decided to stay in St Pierre for a while. The dinghy situation did make logistics somewhat interesting each day but we made the most of things and decided to explore the island. We tried to hire a car, but we're informed that none we available and when asked when we might be able to get one the man pointed happily to the second week in March. So any exploring would have to be on foot or by bus.
Our first excursion was to be a near by walk. Now Darrell's nearby turned out to be a walk to the next village, followed by a stroll up a very steep hill and then the relief of a road with a gentle decline to the start of the walk. The Canal de Beauregarde.In the 1870's the local landowners made their slaves construct a canal, to take water around a mountain to the plantation. After reading the information board, all in French but paid for by the EU, we set off on our adventure.
We walked along the edge of the canal. The canal is about a metre wide along its length and goes around the edge of the mountain. It has a stone wall on one side which is about 40cms across and that is where you walk. Water on one side and a precipitous drop on the other. Along the canal are several sluice gates in the wall to allow water to go into different streams and rivers. It is beautifully constructed and water still flows through it. The walk was fantastic and the views great as you walk through old plantation and rainforest. 





The canal goes through a tunnel, but unfortunately this was closed. So we took a slight detour and 
stopped for a drink at a local bar.
We then continued up the mountain to the next village and thankfully caught the bus back to St Pierre.


Monday 9 February 2015

Martinique Charms Us Both


Last year when we arrived in Martinique for a few days, we were disappointed and at the least very underwhelmed by the island. This was probably due to it being shut. Well it was Easter weekend. By shut I mean everything was closed and the shutters were down apart from the odd bar. Oh and it rained, oh and we had the incident of nearly being run down by a Danish boat. All in all it was not a weekend we look back on fondly. However, we decided we needed to give it another chance. Also we didn't relish a two week wait on St Lucia, for the arrival of a new dinghy.
So we set off early in the morning for the 45 mile sail to St Pierre from Rodney Bay. The sail across the channel was a fast broad reach, with Darrell being thoroughly entertained by some young Boobies (the brown bird variety) diving at the bow to catch the flying fish. We made good time and soon had Fort de France in view, where we spied a catamaran we know well 'Four Winds' and so the race began. Both skippers being true sailors were not going to be put off by the vagaries of a coastal caribbean wind. Stubbornly putting in tiny tacks to catch any small gust when the wind died away. It is frustrating going from a good 9knots to nothing in less than a mile. Bobbing about with no wind is not the most fun, but as an undeclared race was underway neither skipper was going to put on the engine and motor sail.
Luckily, Darrell found the wind first and we happily sailed into St Pierre bay and anchored near to the dock. Four Winds after a couple of attempts and the breaking of their anchor mechanism took a mooring on a dive buoy. Anchoring in St Pierre is always a bit of a challenge as the sea floor is littered with wrecks from the 1902 volcano eruption which wiped out the town. One yacht was unlucky enough to have got its anchor and chain wrapped up on one and required the help of a friendly diver to release them. (The dive school quote €700 to help, where as they managed to get help for €50 and a good bottle of rum! Helps to know the right people!)

This time St Pierre was open and welcoming. The weather was good and the company of friends made for an entertaining time. We all went snorkelling and to our delight we all saw a Seahorse for the first time:



Seago Ranger 320 - Tales of an 'inflatable' dinghy

This is a precautionary tale of our inflatable dinghy, bought new in May 2013 and will be of interest to anyone considering buying such a vessel in the future.
The Seago Ranger 320 is a 3.2m inflatable dinghy with an inflatable floor and keel which gives it a v hull shape similar to rigid hulled dinghies but with the advantage that it can be deflated and rolled into a bag which will fit into one of our cockpit lockers. The dinghy had very little use for its first 3 months of life and only really started earning its keep when Stream was making her way south towards the Canaries in August 2013. Even then she was lightly used and crossed the Atlantic tucked up in her bag in the port cockpit locker to emerge mid December in Freemen's Bay on Antigua to commence Caribbean duties.
For the six months we were in the Caribbean the dinghy performed faultlessly only giving us some concern when she started to slowly lose air from one of the chambers, but this was traced to a
leaking valve due to some sand in it and easily rectified.
To avoid the potential problems caused by a dinghy stored on the deck while we were away during the hurricane season, she was packed up in her bag and put back in the cockpit locker in June and taken out again on our return in Dec 2014. This was when our problems started.
The two tubes forming the port and starboard hulls were slowly deflating, such that when left for a few hours they required pumping up again. Not a major problem but inconvenient and requiring investigation! This investigation (Sarah is now an expert at detecting bubbles with the soapy water!) revealed that both tubes were leaking at their stern ends where the fabric is glued to a plastic cone. Over the next six weeks or so we 'chased' leaks around this area solving one and creating another, such that trips ashore in the dinghy required the pump as an essential piece of equipment. Talk about patching a patch!
Before our friends arrived for a short stay with us we decided that more surgery was needed and set to peeling back one of the tapes covering the seams. Unfortunately this turned out to be a repair too
far, with the result that the loss of air had increased not reduced. By this time Sarah was becoming
adept at blowing up the dinghy and would often disappear only to be found carrying out CPR in the dinghy.

CPR in a confined space
In order to prevent Sarah developing arm muscles like a shot putter and calf muscles like Beryl Burlton (look her up if you don't know who she is, the most successful English female cyclist ever) we decided that a trip to the repair man on St Lucia was called for when we arrived there. The news was mixed. Some good, but generally bad. Yes, they could repair the leaking seams and give a 12 month guarantee to their work, but no guarantee that other seams would not develop leaks. The bad news was that the transom ( the bit between the hulls where the outboard fastens) was coming away as well due to glue failing but yes, they could repair that as well and the whole repair would only set us back 750 US $! Gulp!





Patches on the patches


Transom coming away



Apparently the problem is that our 'cheap' dinghy is made from PVC and the glue used to join the seams breaks down in hot climates like the Caribbean and the Mediterranean. Seago, the 
manufacturers, make no reference to this in any of their literature and neither do any other 
manufacturers or suppliers when they are taking your money. The dinghy is less than two years old. I have emailed Seago and Force Four chandlery who supplied the dinghy, but so far have not had a reply. We will keep you posted!
Whilst we were in the Tobago Cays with our friends we saw a dinghy which had obviously been
found floating on its own,  being towed behind another dinghy in an attempt to find where it had come from. There was a brief discussion on the morality of claiming this dinghy as ours when it suddenly dawned on Darrell that it was our dinghy! To prevent embarrassment to the guilty party no names will be mentioned, but she has had her knot tieing badge withdrawn.
As a further piece in the dinghy saga we decided to bite the bullet, raid the piggy bank and order a new one rather than have repairs done time and time again. The company very kindly has lent us a dinghy to use until ours arrives in a couple of weeks. Unfortunately on its first use, it became apparent that it is in a worse state than our own one, with a major air leak developing in the bow section, the valves leaking and water getting in! At least ours was dry. Out of the frying pan?


Our 'new' dinghy, leaking 5 minutes after blowing it up.



To be continued.



Saturday 7 February 2015

Montreal Gardens St Vincent Part 2

Darrell got artistic trying out the functions on the new camera. But then he did have the material within this wonderful garden.






An Englishman's Garden in the rainforest

We had another great sail across the famous Bequia  Channel to St Vincent. One long beat and we were off Young's Island waiting for a pilot to guide us through the reef by the southwest entrance, which is marked on the sailing guide with a skull and crossbones and do not enter. We slowly followed Michael through without incident and berth in Blue Lagoon Marina for the weekend. 
A strategic move to charge the batteries, clean the boat and pick up our guests when they arrive on Sunday night.

Within a few minutes of arriving, our neighbour Nancy invited us to a party she was having on her boat the following night. A sensible way of not disturbing neighbours; getting them to join in. It also meant we met a lot of people over the next few days, which made the marina stay more enjoyable.
We were chatting over coffee with some of our new friends when we mentioned we wanted to visit Montreal Gardens, as we had read about how wonderful it was. Coincidence or fate, who knows, but our companion was the owner's brother who stays on the island during the winter. He and his wife kindly offered to take us there the next day. An excursion which turned out to be a highlight of our adventure this year. Penny and Jon picked us up the next morning and we had an scenic drive up into the hills. Into Mesopotamia area of St Vincent, which is fertile and cultivated.


The garden has been designed and created by Timothy Vaughn, a British man who trained at Kew and Wisely. He bought the citrus grove twenty years ago and has transformed it into an amazing place surrounded by rainforest and with the backdrop of a volcano. All the more amazing is that it had to all be done by hand.

Now Darrell and I love to visit gardens, but both of us were blown away by this one. The colours of the follage, the beautiful flowers, the rugged landscape and the glorious trees had us enthralled. We could have stayed all day wandering the different paths. Even the rain didn't dampen our spirits, as there were shelters built along the paths. These gardens are such a gem, but very little is done by St Vincent to celebrate them. It was a privilege to spend time there, meet its creator and chat to him.




A different sense of a place.



Dragging ourselves away from the serenity of Tobago Cays was made a lot easier, as we know we will be back with friends in a week or so. So we upped anchor and motor sailed the short distance across to Mayreau. We chose Salt Whistle Bay at the Northern end of the island, as when we came in May we were smitten by it. how things can change!
The last bar before the jungle.
Salt Whistle Bay is a gorgeous horseshoe bay, with a white sand beach fringed with palm trees. The epitome of the image of Caribbean beaches. From the anchorage you can see across the beach, through the trees to the Tobago Cays. Nestled in the trees is a stone built bar and tables, that seem to belong to Alice in Wonderland, part of a resort that is no longer in use, but quite magical. On the beach there are a few bars. The water is turquoise and clear. So it makes the perfect stop after the Cays.

The stone built booths in the abandoned resort on the beach.
It was fairly busy when we came in and we anchored between some boats in a patch of sand. However, a local boat boy informed us that we were in the way of the buoy and the big Cats would charge us. So we moved and anchored in a nice space. But within half an hour we were surrounded by 60ft Catamarans. In fact we were so close that we could join in their conversations. This made for a less than tranquil night. Especially as at 8pm in the pitch back another came in to anchor and seemed to be in our cockpit with us. 
We did swim ashore to visit the bars and have a walk, but dodging the boats was a little difficult. In fact Sarah was so engrossed following a fish she swam into a 60 ft Catamaran.

We were pleased to leave the next morning for a romp across to Bequia. Close hauled most of the way a nice easy sail, making 8 knots with two knots of current with us. Sarah had a fleeting though of shaking out a reef but soon got over it!

February Competition

We had several entries for our January competition. The closest was a Mrs Trellis of Colwyn Bay. However, we would like to take this opportunity to remind everyone that Stream has a blue hull not white or red!
This month's competition is from Admiralty Bay on Bequia. A beautiful if somewhat busy anchorage. In fact we took a while to find a spot to anchor off Princess Margaret's Beach. We spent a couple of days here exploring the island and are looking forward to spending more time here with friends later in the season.

All entries to this month competition to be sent to Darrell.

Bequia has a lovely relaxed feel and is very welcoming. Port Elizabeth is the main town and is very pretty, with many of the houses and buildings having the 'Gingerbread' wooden fretwork characteristic of the Caribbean. Many are painted in bright colours adding to the charm. They have built a waterfront walk that goes right along the bay and is very pleasant. We walked across to Friendship Bay, which looks across the water to Mustique. We popped into the Boat museum and were amazed at the boats that are used for whaling by the locals.


Bequia whaling boats used up to 2010.

The whaling boats are 27ft long and are rowed by the crew. The boats are manned by a crew of a seven. Using harpoons one of the men will shoot the whale. When he is successful another will put more harpoons into the whale and they will tie the whale to the boat. Before they row back to the whale station, one of the men sews the mouth of the whale up. This prevents it taking it on water and sinking. Whaling provided Bequia with oil, meat and wealth for a long period of its history.